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Vintage Lingerie: 30 Patterns Based on Period Garments Plus Finishing Techniques, by Jill Salen
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Vintage Lingerie includes:
-30 beautiful and historically accurate examples of period lingerie from 1850 to 1970, covering a range of fabulous vintage pieces from 1920s French knickers to 1950s pin-up brassieres. It includes corsets, brassieres, girdles, petticoats, and much more.
-Each stunning example is accompanied by a full working pattern, photographs and drawings, plus a historical overview giving an invaluable insight into making up these period pieces.
-Two step-by-step projects both guide and inspire the beginner costume maker, while practical advice is also given, from attaching hooks and eyes to embellishing with embroidered detail.
From 1920s French knickers to 1950s pin-up brasieres, these fabulous vintage pieces chart the progression of lingerie over the last century. The book covers a range of fascinating garments, including 1890s corsets, 1940s garter belts, 1950s New Look girdles, brassieres, and much more. The book includes 30 fully annotated working patterns alongside drawings, photographs, and practical advice on making up the garments.
For fashion and costume students and costume designers working on stage or screen, the historically accurate patterns are essential for capturing the classic shapes of any period. Students and historians will find the period details and historical background of each garment an invluable resource. Whether you need to construct a historically accurate period garment or simply wish to channel your inner 1950s starlet, this book is for you.
- Sales Rank: #501986 in Books
- Published on: 2012-02-14
- Released on: 2012-02-14
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 11.24" h x .62" w x 9.31" l, 1.80 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 128 pages
About the Author
JILL SALEN is a costume maker who is widely employed in the theatrical costume industry. She has made costumes for many clients including the Globe theatre in London. She is a lecturer in costume at the Royal Welsh College of Music and Drama and has been measuring and producing patterns of period garments from private and museum colections for many years.
Most helpful customer reviews
52 of 54 people found the following review helpful.
Good for theater, not good for home sewer
By Duneb
I bought this hoping to find some good patterns and directions to make vintage inspired lingerie like tap pants, garter belts, and chemises. While the photos are lovely, the patterns are not for the home sewer. The information about sizes is nearly nonexistent, and you will have to scale the patterns up as well as in all probability make at least 2 muslins (one to see how big the pattern is, and then the other to your measurements!) Personally, I consider this way too much work to obtain basic undergarments (and this is coming from someone who has scaled up period patterns before)! This would be best for people interested in textile history and theater, but I am thinking even for those people, it would not have quite enough historical information since the descriptions are pretty brief. The garments are also on the more unusual side- many are maternity, others are styles which were made on the cusp of fashion changes, and so on. I don't see many people wanting to make a maternity girdle!
I was also disappointed that the 'sewing techniques' were basic instructions that you would find in any good sewing book (and even the ones in this book are so brief they assume you know some construction already). The 3-4 "simple" projects in the back were a bit of a let down, with the exception of the 1906 petticoat which I think would actually make a lovely (non-lingerie) skirt made in garment fabric as well. (The others were a very basic bralette and something else I've forgotten already).
For the home sewer interested in reproducing vintage lingerie, I do NOT recommend this book for patterns and technique. The pictures may be interesting for home sewers and artists because some of the decorative detail is wonderful, but check it out of your library first to check before you buy. I've given it 3 stars because it's probably a good start on (but still of possibly limited usefullness) period lingerie resources for theater folks and historians.
25 of 26 people found the following review helpful.
Patterns are barely usable
By Donna
The history was very interesting and she chose some beautiful examples but if you are really expecting to use the patterns, forget it. They are very raw, hand drawn and very difficult to follow and I've been sewing for over 30 years.
23 of 26 people found the following review helpful.
Misses the Mark
By blubberella
"Vintage Lingerie" by Jill Salen is perhaps helpful as a costume reference for 20th century lingerie, but is sorely lacking in several areas:
1) Several of the garments are anomalies that do not serve much useful purpose except as curiosities (ie Khiva corset, Spirella fitting garment, Patent Brassiere 1920's).
2) The text that describes the garments attempts to have a slightly humorous tone, but often comes across as judgemental or snarky with descriptions like "trussed up" and " presumably the purchaser could have found a more comfortable way to achieve her desired shape than wires and lacing".
3) The quality of the patterns is poor. Are they supposed to be funky and handmade looking like the first Moosewood cookbook from the 1970's, or why are many of them drawn without the assistance of a ruler or curve ? There are too many balance marks on even short pattern pieces that ignore the most basic premises of marking.
4) The photography is well lit and show the garments clearly, with the exception of the Khiva corset, whose black on black details vanish. No photographer was credited - was it Jill Salen ? However, several of the garments were not properly pressed before they were photographed (see: Blue Silk Slip, 1930's). It appears that the same antique dress form was used to photograph many of the garments. However - this form looks to have been a late 1920's form with little bust definition and very slim hips(or may have even been a man's form !). This works well for the garments of the period - but does not show the later bras well. In addition, when the garments were padded to be photographed, white tissue or quilt stuffing was used which clearly shows though the sheer panels (hint: next time use tissue that is close in color of the form the garment is photographed on). Worst of all - when many of the bras were photographed they were were placed on the form off center (there is a seam that runs down the center front of the dress form). This drove me nuts ! It wasn't one garment, once, it is visible in most of the shots !
5) It would have been helpful to have seen the front and back of many of the garments, or an interior view of the more complex foundation garments. If you are looking for technical construction references an average listing on Ebay will show you much more about the garment inside and out.
6) The finishing techniques section is only applicable to hand finished garments, like the slips and teddies. The majority of the garments shown were factory made items, but there is no insight as to the type of machines used, industrial finishes, or process.
I would feel much more confident about Jill Salen's abilities if there were muslin garments shown made from each of the patterns, based on the examples in the book.
In short - what is this book ? A pattern book ? No, not really, the patterns are not usable when scaled up, especially as the size of the pattern is not indicated. A reference book ? No, not really, there is not enough information about the garments, like actual fibre content of the fabric. Jill Salen does tell us that she purchased this item in a thrift store, or that she was told that set was "made by nuns in Ceylon", but this does not provide much in the way of research except as entertainment perhaps. A coffee table book ? No, the garments are photographed to show the basic details, but go no further than this.
I give this "Vintage Lingerie" two stars for existing, but hope that Jill Salen's next book will work harder to fill in the gaps, since she seems to love this topic.
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