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On Foot to the Golden Horn: A Walk to Istanbul, by Jason Goodwin
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On Foot to the Golden Horn recounts Jason Goodwin’s breathtaking journey with two companions through Eastern Europe from the dikes and marshes of Poland’s Baltic coast across to the Golden Horn in Istanbul. Along the way, they sleep in haystacks, drink with Gypsies, and play with Ceaucescu’s orphans, meeting with blatant hostility and overwhelming hospitality as an older Europe tries to settle with itself, and a new one struggles to be born. It is the story of three friends’ walk through some of the world’s most beautiful and tragic places, and of their encounters with a varied and vivid cast of characters.
- Sales Rank: #3031862 in Books
- Published on: 2003-01-01
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 8.34" h x .83" w x 5.48" l, .81 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 288 pages
Amazon.com Review
Though classified as a travel book, On Foot to the Golden Horn could just as easily fall under history. Don't roll your eyes: it is the story of an incredible voyage, full of encounters with fascinating people and landscapes. But its backdrop is one of the most important historical moments of the late 20th century--Eastern Europe at the beginning of the 1990s. Goodwin's motives initially had nothing to do with this moment: fascinated by the history of Istanbul, he vows to reach the place as a visitor would have during its Byzantine heyday--on foot. As a result, he and his friends find themselves tramping through Poland, Czechoslovakia, Hungary, Romania, and Bulgaria as the Iron Curtain falls all around them.
Goodwin's arduous journey proves an excellent allegory for the struggles these nations faced as the Eastern bloc crumbled, the combination of backbreaking hardship and a faint glimmer of hope, almost impossibly far off in the distance. As a result, Goodwin is able to seamlessly fuse the rich and checkered past of the lands around him to the tales of his own struggle towards the Istanbul of his imagination. The result is an experience that would be impossible to duplicate. Since his visit, eastern Europe has undergone sweeping changes; we will never have the chance to visit the lands that he saw. But thanks to Goodwin's skill and diligence, we have the next best thing. --Andrew Nieland
Review
“An excellent book ...one of the truest portraits of present-day Central Europe available.” —Times Literary Supplement
“Goodwin’s writing has a brilliance, is observant, visual, accurate....If there is a better travel book published for some time to come it will be surprising.” —P. J. Kavanaugh
“The anecdotes are good, the history relevant and the generalizations revealing....He also writes like a dream, which is to say that his prose is dreamlike as well as excellent.” —Independent on Sunday
About the Author
Jason Goodwin is a regular contributor to The New York Times and Condé Nast Traveler. He received the John Llewellyn Rys Prize for On Foot to the Golden Horn, and he lives in Cambridge, England, with his wife and children.
Most helpful customer reviews
18 of 22 people found the following review helpful.
Interesting Topic, Shallow and Biased Analysis
By HM
There is no doubt that Goodwin's walk must have been an interesting. Walking the length of Eastern Europe in early 1990 must have been a daring and exhillarating experience.
However, it is perhaps because of the high expectations that I had for this book that I was so thoroughly dissapointed by it. Having read much about the Balkans in particular, and having lived and traveled extensively throughout the region, I was rather dissapointed in Goodwin's approach. Very early in the book, one notices how Goodwin sees all the countries he walks through with a very Northern European viewpoint.
Despite his implicit acknowledgement that he really has not spent much time with Romanians, Goodwin is quick to denounce the nation's claims to Transylvania and everything else. Goodwin makes it clear that in his view, Romanians are the scum of the earth -- a people without culture, class, or civilization. Staying throughout with Hungarians and Saxons, Goodwin makes very little effort to interact with Romanians, and thus shows the prejudices of his hosts in his writing. Even in the titles of his chapters, he uses Hungarian and German names -- names not commonly used anymore -- instead of Romanian names for various towns he visits. Most disturbing is Goodwin's complete disregard for Romania's third great region, Moldavia -- a region many consider to be the cultural heart of Romania; a land of immesnse beauty, world-class wine, and hospitable -- Romanian -- people. While Goodwin understandably did not make a detour in this region, his utter contempt for Romanians -- blaming the people themselves for the brutality of Ceausescu -- is reprehensible.
This book had a lot of potential, and could have been a wonderful read. However, it is clear from reading it that Goodwin made his journey with a closed and prejudiced mind -- something that denied both him and the reader a true picture of a very rich and beautiful region. The one reedeeming factor is that despite all his biases, Goodwin's descriptive powers are immense. Many of the spots where both he and I stood are depicted with great authenticity in the book. All in all, a book worth reading -- albeit with a large grain of salt.
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
Well-paced, evocative travelogue
By ADAM
I have greatly enjoyed reading this book.
Just after the 'fall' of Communism in Eastern Europe, the author of this book decided to visit Istanbul, a place about which he had dreamt for many years. Rather than approach it suddenly by stepping out of an aeroplane at Istanbul's airport, he decided to approach the city on the Golden Horn gradually, and slowly. In order to do this, he and 2 companions walk there from Gdansk in Poland.
The author describes the places through which he passes - often places which time and modern life seem to have forgotten - with love and great sympathy. This account of an unusual journey is interlaced with relevant history and much interesting detail. It is a record of a Europe, which is destined to fade away if it has not already done so.
Anyone with an interest in Eastern Europe - especially in Poland and Rumania - should read this superb travelogue. The same goes for those who love good travel writing.
Review by the author of "Scrabble with Slivovitz", a travel book about the Balkans.
26 of 34 people found the following review helpful.
Long Live Queen Victoria!
By Tevfik AKTUGLU
While reading this book I had three major difficulties: author's disturbing attitude towards Romanians, his way of treating history, and his unnecassarily sophisticated vocabulary.
According to the author, Romanians do not deserve to be called humans while all Hungarians are, without exception, angels. When you finish reading the chapter on Romania you are filled with a desire to take the country from their hands and give it back to its rightful owners. But then, you remember how history was made in 18th thru 20th centuries and you appreciate that Romanians can also have aspirations. They just don't have the means to realize them.
Second hurdle was author's way of treating history as a combination of hearsay and oversimplifications. Simplifying history might be a good idea to instill curiosity in a little kid but when it comes to us grown-ups, we need a little more than that. Let me give you an example. On page 243, it is said that Khazars were divided into two groups: black and white. So far so good. But there is a big problem with the interpretation. You are made to believe that these two colors were used to differentiate between people's skin color. Wrong! Anyone who knows a little about ancient Turkish history knows that Turks used colors to designate geographical locations. For instance, they called the Mediterranean as 'Akdeniz' (White Sea). Because 'ak' (white) stands for west and Mediterranean lies to the west of where Turks used to live. Likewise, The Black Sea is called Karadeniz because 'kara' (black) designates north of Anatolia and Caucasia where Turks were living when they named the sea. So Jason [I am Turkish and can you read my last name?], you miserably failed!
Last but not least of all, the author uses an annoyingly sophisticated language. At times this breaks your concentration and turns your reading experience into a torture.
To summarize: I made a mistake and wasted my time and money; you don't have to repeat the same mistake.
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